Thursday, March 30, 2017
Understanding the Basics of Shear and Scissor Sharpening
Understanding the Basics of Shear and Scissor Sharpening: Today is the last day in the office before our annual
Sharpeners Jam. I have been working with knowledgeable shear sharpeners and
have been sharpening for so many years I often take for granite that the
average shear sharpener has a fundamental idea of the complexities and geometry
of Japanese style shears. I also assume that even if their sharpening technique
and equipment is different they are reaching for the same goal based on
returning the stylist shear to the original edge. My assumptions are wrong.When I first began sharpening I did not understand the
purpose and the shape of the hone or ride-line. I was clueless about the shear
set and alignment. But because I practiced with the philosophy “Do no harm” I
was able to restore an edge on a shear that was not badly damaged by using very
smooth ceramic stones and using hand sharpening to follow the angles and edges on
the shears. Unless the shears were damaged by a previous sharpener or had very
deep nicks, I could bring a shear back to a performing level and my customers were
happy … well most of them. I had this nagging doubt that I really didn’t know
all I should.Today, I still don’t know all that I should, but I have a
better understanding of the shear edge. I have toured three scissor making
factories and trained with sharpeners from factories from 3 different
countries. What I learned is techniques and machinery is different but there
are still fundamentals that all sharpeners must abide by. This is important for
sharpeners to know as well as the owners of quality shears so they can assess
whether their sharpener is following those principles. Like me in the early years, my technique was not always
perfect but I met success in most of my cases. There are sharpeners who have
good reviews but have not updated their techniques, knowledge and equipment.
They do this by attending sharpening conventions and investing in themselves
and their profession. They do this through certification programs that prove
not only to the stylist but more importantly to themselves that they know what
they are doing.In 2012, I spoke at the National Beauty Tool Sharpeners
Guild Convention with a presentation entitled “Sharpening Shears – Back to
Basics.” I was the first woman to speak to the convention. In that presentation
I covered this information that is essential to know no matter what technique
or equipment for sharpening scissors a sharpener might use. This video should
make my point. Please watch all three parts.
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Bonika Shears
Catch up on Bonika Shears news, highlights from hairshows, sharpening tips, photos and events of interest to hair stylists and those who sharpen their shears.
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